Bardstown loves its history, which is not surprising for a town that is 237 years old (although the first stirrings of settlement began eight years prior to that) - making it one of the oldest communities in Kentucky. Bardstown’s history parallels much of America’s, with one notable addition unique to the town itself (hint: it centers on an amber liquid made primarily of corn). Today’s visitor in search of that history has any number of sites to choose from.
Those interested in religious history can visit St. Joseph’s Proto-Cathedral, the oldest Roman Catholic cathedral west of the Allegheny Mountains (1819). They can stroll the serene grounds of the Abbey at Gethsemani, where in the mid-19th century a group of monks and laymen from the Abbey of Melleray in France arrived to found a new monastery in an area known for bourbon rather than wine.
For bourbon lovers, it is no mystery why Bardstown is known as the “Bourbon Capital of the World,” as its distillery tradition dates as far back as 1792, and it’s home to the nation’s oldest working bourbon distillery still on its original site – Maker’s Mark, going back to 1805.
When it comes to pre-Civil War mansions, Bardstown has that covered as well. No visitor should leave without taking a free self-guided tour of the house and grounds at Wickland. This three-story mansion is considered one of the finest examples of Georgian-style architecture in Kentucky, but the real story is in the family that lived here. That family produced three governors, two in Kentucky and one in Louisiana.
When it comes to houses, however, one stands above the rest (literally) – atop a hill surrounded by a grove of magnolia and elm trees. Federal Hill, a three-story red brick Georgian mansion and home to a prominent 19th century Kentuckian, Judge John Rowan, might have been just an historical footnote had it not been for a young man by the name of Stephen Collins Foster. Foster, a Northerner from Pittsburgh, paid a memorable visit to Federal Hill, and was so moved by the grace and charm of the house that he penned his most famous ballad, “My Old Kentucky Home.” Both the song and the man who composed it take center stage every summer when the musical drama “The Stephen Foster Story” is presented at the outdoor amphitheater on the grounds of My Old Kentucky Home State Park. The musical has been part of Bardstown’s history since 1959. The sun still “shines bright” on this beloved symbol of the commonwealth thanks to vigorous efforts to preserve its heritage.One of the ways this is done, according to park manager Jeremy Riggs, “is by creating memorable experiences and a sense of place.” “My Old Kentucky Home State Park serves as a gathering place where people can connect with Kentucky’s traditions, whether through live performances of Foster’s music, historical re-enactments or annual events,” he says.He adds that these things “allow for nuanced discussions of Stephen Foster’s contributions to American music, while at the same time acknowledging the complexities of the era in which he lived.” The efforts of Riggs, mansion manager Richard Blanton and their staff ensure that the home and park remain a meaningful, educational and historically relevant site.
Bardstown’s sometimes lawless history can be seen in two of its unique accommodations. At the Jailer’s Inn Bed & Breakfast, iron bars on the windows, 30-inch-thick stone walls, and a heavy steel door slamming shut behind you are reminders of when the building served as the Nelson County Jail. Built in 1797, it was the oldest operating jail complex in Kentucky, and continued to house prisoners for 200 years.Today, however, the Jailer’s Inn guests can “do time” in style. If you have doubts, just check out the circa 1819 inn’s nine guest rooms. You can still slumber on one of two original bunks in the jail cell (the only room still resembling a cell, it’s especially popular with the younger members of the family), but the remaining beautifully appointed accommodations are not likely to provoke a riot. Choose from the antique-filled Victorian Room or the Art Deco-inspired Library Room or the summery feel of the Garden Room. It’s difficult to imagine – over hot coffee and breakfast in the charming courtyard – that this courtyard was once the gallows site for the jail’s most unfortunate prisoners. Paul McCoy, who has owned the property for 30 years, says he wanted to maintain as much of the jail’s authenticity as possible, which he has done in the rear of the building. Just inside the front entrance of the inn, visitors notice a plaque that reads “preserving the past is a gift for the future.” “That’s my philosophy at the Jailer’s Inn,” says McCoy.
Just down the street from the Jailer’s Inn is the Old Talbott Tavern, arguably the most famous inn in the commonwealth. In operation since the late 1700s, it has the distinction of being the oldest coaching inn west of the Alleghenies, and has played host to just about every hero and scoundrel that passed through Kentucky on his way to somewhere else. Exiled French king Louis Phillipe stayed here with his entourage and painted murals on the upstairs walls. Less artistic are the bullet holes in the now-faded paintings, courtesy of another guest, outlaw Jesse James. When he wasn’t shooting holes in the art, James, a known lover of bourbon, could be found raising a glass in the inn’s taproom, recognized as the oldest bourbon bar in the world. If you want to sleep surrounded by history, book one of the five individually decorated rooms in the original inn – all named after a famous (or infamous) guest.The Lincoln Room honors the 16th president, who was born 20 miles away in Hodgenville and stayed here with his parents. The General’s Room is named for two distinguished generals who slept here more than a century apart – George Rogers Clark and George Smith Patton. The Daniel Boone Room honors the famed frontiersman who once overnighted here while giving a deposition in a land dispute.
With 279 structures and 26 blocks of the Downtown District listed in the National Register of Historic Places, it’s no surprise that our town of just under 11,000 has a robust historic preservation society. So robust, in fact, that in 1979 when he was president, Jimmy Carter held one of his town hall meetings in the district. A self-guided walking tour of this historic treasure is available, with stops at places such as the Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History in Spalding Hall (formerly the main building of the 19th century St. Joseph’s College, the first Catholic college in Kentucky), and My Old Kentucky Dinner Train (pop in at the depot and book a lunch or dinner excursion combining a culinary adventure with vistas of the scenic countryside).
Bourbon may be the heart of Bardstown, but the town’s nearly two-and-a-half-centuries of history is its very soul. Come visit and see how we nourish that soul.
For more information about Bardstown’s history, go to VisitBardstown.com.